Porto - A day in my hometown

Born and raised in Porto, I watched my city fall over the years into a certain level of abandonment, everything revolved around the capital of the empire Lisbon lol (well, I love Lisbon, I only say this in jest, I never felt like some people who only think that your place is better than all others). The few shops that opened, shortly afterwards ended up not surviving. Few were those that escaped through the rain. The buildings and streets, increasingly deserted, a soul-only pain.

From one moment to the next.... there was made light! BOOM, it seems that the city begins to be reborn through the ashes, just like a Phoenix! A tourist here, another one there and suddenly... Heaps of them and of course with them care to restore and receive (and how well are we in receiving?... Very well, modesty aside:-))

It is with immense joy that today I see Porto, as an increasingly modern and appealing city, everywhere I see a building in ruins to be completely restored, another fantastic and cozy restaurant there, plus one or another modern and captivating store, it's really a very interesting process indeed.

Well, not everything is a bed of roses, prices have risen, a lot... But in the end, is it not worth it? From my point of view yes, without the slightest doubt, the city is simply BEAUTIFUL and ENGAGING! I feel pride in our city.

Sometimes I wonder... What if I was a tourist for a day in my own town? Knowing the city as I know it, where would I like to be taken?

Let's just walk around the city a little bit... Well, who says a little… might as well say a lot! After all, walking is good for your health ;))

Santa Catarina Street! This would be my starting point, so that I could see the Capela das Almas (Chapel of Souls). This Chapel is lined with (only!) 115947 blue tiles! These tiles tell the life of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Catherine, who are venerated in this place!

Then let's head towards Batalha. But first, let us take a small detour to find a pearl in Rua Formosa - A Pérola do Bolhão. It has a façade in Art Nouveau style and has belonged to the same family for 3 generations. Here you can buy almost everything, from tea, to coffee, light cod, wines and much more. This is where I like to buy my nuts. I just love the variety and quality this antique traditional grocery store as to offer. Without a doubt, this is one of my favorite go-to places, when I need to find something special for someone special as well! :-))

My next stop, not far away, would be a majestic place: Café Majestic. This café is considered one of the most beautiful in the world! Inside is like living in another era, the Belle Époque! I have to use the expression of a Brazilian friend who I think describes in perfection this place "it is just like the face of wealth "!

From the Majestic Café to the Batalha Square are just half a dozen steps and half a dozen shops for one to get lost :-))

Batalha Square and Santo Ildefonso Church

We head now towards Liberdade Square and Avenida dos Aliados. It's just down the street... and as we say here, when descending all the saints help :-)) We will find the Porto City Hall building at the top of the avenue, some banks in magnificent buildings, the Intercontinental Hotel occupying the old and beautiful Palace of Cardosas and the most recent, the Maison Albar Hotels Le Monumental in fully restored Porto historical building.

It is here, on Avenida dos Aliados, that the main events of the city are celebrated, concerts, the festivities of Saint John (São João - the patron saint of the city of Porto), the giant Christmas tree... after all, there are more than 100 years of history in this little corner of the city.

Tip: Take a look at the McDonald's restaurant here at Liberdade Square. Yes, McDonald's! Curiously it was once considered the most beautiful of it's chain! It occupies a special place for me, since I had to walk through it when I went to see my mother at her work. At that time it was the Imperial Cafe. Fortunately, they kept the magnificent bronze eagle at the façade and inside the beautiful stained glass window. A must see ;)

Let's continue our stroll through my city… Torre dos Clérigos… here I come!!! And of couse we must not forget to visit also the Clérigos Church :-)

Knowing me as I know, I would not be satisfied if I did not go up to the tower to see the magnificent view!

Wow, is it me or can I see Lello from here?!

Before going to the bookstore why not indulge in a Pastel de Nata?

Never in my life would I fail to visit the famous Livraria Lello. If it's not the most beautiful bookstore in the world, it certainly won't be very far from that. Our Bookstore is unique! This year it celebrates 113 years and is definitely worth the visit. Of course, for Harry Potter lovers this place will have an added magic! :-))
For several years the entrance was free, but now, due to the huge increase in tourism, it has a small cost of 5 euros, however if you purchase any book, this amount will be entirely deductible. I think it's fair!

Tip: In order to avoid the giant queues, you should buy your entrance voucher in advance. You can purchase it through the website.

Bookshop schedule: Daylight savings time - Every day from 10am to 8pm. Standard Time: Monday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays from 10h00 to 19h00.

Taking advantage of the proximity, why not visit the Carmo Church?! I always found it's tiles beautiful.

Then I would go to the now so trendy Rua das Flores. Oh, My... What it was and how it is now! This street has been so abandoned for so many years and is now more alive than ever, full of lodgings, cafes and shops.
Since I'm a soap lover, of course the Claus store would be mandatory.
We also have, on this street, another beautiful church, the Misericórdia Church is open from 08h00 to 12h00 and from 02h30 to 17h30, and closes on Monday. Another place to visit would be the MMIPO museum (Porto's Church of Mercy Museum).

Tip: Behind 171-189 of Rua das Flores there are still remains of one of the most important hospitals in Porto!!!! Roc Amador Hospital.

interior view from the MMIPO museum


interior of the Misericórdia Church

From here I would go to the Ribeira. Filled with joy and color, my dear Ribeira. This is a very special place, always full of life, perfect to spend a good time, whether to drink a glass of wine with friends, to have lunch or dinner or just contemplating the Douro River.

We then cross the D. Luís Bridge, just as a curiosity designed by Théophile Seyrig, one of Gustave Eiffel's collaborators! This bridge has 2 levels, a top (for metro and pedestrians) and a lower one (for traffic and for pedestrians).

On the other side of the river, there is an undoubtedly beautiful view over Porto that we have of the margin of Gaia, also known as Cais de Gaia!!!!

Time now to enjoy the Rabelos, the typical boats that transported the barrels of Port Wine from the Alto Douro region to here, Vila Nova de Gaia. Here they remained until they were distributed and appreciated all over the world.

At this time of the journey, I think I would already be starving lol. It's time to try the famous Francesinha! Well, here as in everything, opinions vary enormously. If you ask someone in the city where you eat the best francesinha, everyone will name a different place... but for me the best place to go is without a doubt the Taberninha do Manel. I have very fond memories of this place that I visited very often in my young adult days. Very good were the social gatherings among friends that I spent here.

Francesinha, with an egg, lots of sauce and potatoes please!

Depending on the will and given that some of the Port Wine Cellars are here so close by, I would visit one of them. In my college days the visits were mostly free and always with a wine tasting at the end... Needless to say there were a lot of good people who liked to visit more than one on the same day:-))).
I'm not sure why, but I've always liked Sandeman's.
But, as my route has in view the Gaia Cable Car, the company currently has a partnership with Quinta de Santa Eufémia, offering a tasting of Port Wines, very close to the cable car. The one way ticket costs € 6, but there are round-trip tickets and family tickets. The cable car operates daily from 10h-18h (25/10 to 23/03), from 10-19h (24/03 to 25/04 and 25/09 to 24/10), and from 10h-20h (26/04 to 24/09).

There we go up, up to the Serra do Pilar

The view is simply amazing!

We arrived at the viewpoint of Serra do Pilar. The view from here is breathtaking. The sunset and nightfall, for those who have a chance to contemplate it, are very beautiful.
It is time to cross the upper deck of the Bridge, return to Porto and absorb all the "invicta" surroundings. (Porto is also known as the "Invicta" city, but that's a story for another post ;)).

Leaving the D. Luís bridge, we'll find, a few meters to the left side, the most important religious building in the city, the Sé Cathedral. Some say that the original Cathedral was built in the year 580!!! Seven times destroyed and as many times rebuilt! The construction of the present Cathedral began in the year 1100 by the hand of Count D. Henrique and his wife, Queen D. Teresa.
It is worth not only to visit the cathedral itself, but also the Gothic Chapel of St. John the Evangelist where the remains of João Gordo lie in a sepulchral ark worthy of being admired.

Currently the value to visit the cloister is 3 euros (2019) and let's face it ... it is a very reasonable price. The interior is beautiful, as are its treasures! ... not to miss pleaseeeeee

And finally, we could not miss admiring the beautiful hand-painted azulejos, an art so typically Portuguese!

I would end my special day at the São Bento Station, which was once a former convent (Convent of S. Bento de Avé-Maria). The station is covered by "only" 20,000 tiles that illustrate not only the evolution of transport, but also scenes from the Portuguese History.

 Aren't they magnificent?!!!

I could recommend so much more in my city… Unfortunately and however much you want it is impossible to visit everything in one day, or even in one go. I often find myself wandering, even though I've lived here for so many years, suddenly I'm in a street I do not know, I never been in this street, I whisper... or I had never noticed this or that detail, I think to my self.

After all, I always keep in mind, when I go somewhere, that I won't be able to see everything. I usually make a very small list of some things or places that I would like to visit, everything else I consider simply... a Bonus! Practical, in my point of view :-)).

Where would I have dinner that day? Umm? Umm? How about something very traditional?! Taberna de Santo António! yep

A very simple place, always full, not only for lunch but also for dinner! It is highly recommended to make a reservation. The service is simple but very welcoming and the food very well prepared. "Bolinhos de Bacalhau" are delicious, you just want to eat more and more, can't get enough of those!!!! And the chocolate mousse... yummm, out of this world!!

How about some delicious rice with read beans and codfish? 

or some mackerel?

Time flies, and now we're in the Jardim das Virtudes. Time to see the Douro River from one of its iconic viewpoints before making the decision.... Am I still in time for a show at the Coliseu do Porto? Or even at the Casa da Música?

This is my city, a city that has watched me grow up and that will always live in my heart. This would be, in my point of view, a full day, physically a little tiring perhaps, but very rich and full of joy. Yes, without a doubt, this would be a wonderful day!

How to get around Porto?
Walking - without a doubt the best way to really get to know and live the city!
Porto Metro - Metro Map

There are different tickets available: Andante Blue (a rechargeable card for those who travel by Metro occasionally), Andante 24 (to use within 24 hours in the selected zone) and Andante Tour for 1 and 3 days (to be used in the entire Andante transport network in the chosen period - STCP buses, metro, some CP trains, among others).

Tip: The Andante Tour is one of the best options to enjoy the city with no worries! ;)

Porto Buses - STCP
Historical electric cars / Streetcar - Porto Tram City Tour

Cable Car and Funicular - Teleférico de Gaia and Funicular dos Guindais

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